5 Senses of Surfing

It’s amazing, what looking through a different set of lenses will do. Yesterday morning as I entered the water, I was humbled by an ominously dark grey sky to the north. Never my favorite thing to see, but I remained cautiously optimistic. I was hoping to get a solid session in, my third in a 24 hour period, before the rain started. Wish granted. Great waves, uncrowded lineup (Monday morning), and the water still warm for New Hampshire standards. But the gift was in the elements, and the senses. That same grey sky…for a brief moment…surrendered. While paddling back out, I looked up to see the most modest break in the clouds. The light hit the water and reflected back the grey sky…making the ocean look like pure silver. What a sight. I sat up on my board to get a better look. Engulfed by the beauty, I took stock of my surroundings. The primal force of floating in the ocean. Where we came from. I closed my eyes and felt her power lift me and lower me. Heard the sound of the waves crashing on the shore. Dipped both of my hands into the water and pressed them gently on my face, feeling cleansed. Baptized in holy water. Cupped my hands over my nose to smell that gorgeous scent. Ran my tongue across my lips to taste the salt water. Nothing like it. All of this, sitting in silence between sets, about 10 feet from the next closest guy in the lineup. Something very sacred about that, too. Just sitting in silence next to your fellow human being. Sharing a mutual love of something. No words needed. Thankful for that grey sky, for teaching me how beautiful she could be…and how to look at things differently. Grateful for the ever evolving, sensual experience of this life 🙏❤️🌊

Photo by the one and only BRIAN NEVINS http://www.briannevins.com


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